Kantin
Chef Semsa Denizsel
Place Istanbul, Turkey
Semsa Denizsel has been named the Alice Waters of Turkey for her championning of locavorism and use of seasonal produce. Her culinary approach emphasizes simplicity and sustainability, with unshakeable roots in Istanbul and Aegean traditions.
Semsa Denizsel is chef-owner of Kantin restaurant. She comes from a family established in Istanbul for many generations and describes the food she cooks as New Istanbul Cuisine. Based on traditions, but re-thought for today, the food she cooks is local, sourced from small producers as much as possible, and always in sync with seasons.
150 minutes cook/prep
1) Soak the beans for 2 hours in cold water.
2) Boil plenty of water and add the soaked and drained beans along with a clove of garlic, one cherry tomato and the stalks tied as a “bouquet garni”. Boil until cooked but very firm. Drain.
3) Sauté the onions in olive oil over medium-low heat. When translucent, add the diced carrot. A few minutes later, turn the heat high, when it starts sizzling add the garlic and cherry tomatoes. Add the beans and some hot water.
4) Once the beans are cooked, finish it off by turning the heat off and tossing in the croutons, parsley and basil leaves and pickled lemon pieces. Add plenty of freshly ground pepper, a squeeze of lemon, some more lemon rind. And as the last touch on the plate, more olive oil.
Serve with sourdough croutons which are large, torn rather than cut, roasted with olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper and lemon rind.
Approach
Plant-based ingredients, including vegetables, fruits, grains, pulses, and wild edible weeds are inspirational to cook with. Besides being healthy, they are a pleasure to eat. At the restaurant, our menu changes twice daily for lunch and for dinner. And plant-forward lets us follow the rhythm of the earth; seasons reflect on the menus through plants. Most of our starters are plant-based and we include at least one plant-based entree.
What 3 plant-based foods could you not be without in your kitchen?
Pulses, mainly chickpeas and beans, wild edible weeds, and onions are among the foodstuffs without which I can't exist cooking.
What would be your advice to a young and upcoming chef wanting to move towards more plant-forward menu concepts?
Plant-forward is challenging, creative, healthy, diverse, delicious, and seasonally conscious. What more could any chef ask for?