Rustic Canyon
Chef Jeremy Fox
Place Los Angeles, CA, USA
Chef Jeremy Fox was ahead of the vegetable-centric curve, first gaining notoriety for his vegetarian creations at Ubuntu in Napa, and today being lauded for the exceptional creativity he brings to the fruits, vegetables, heirloom beans, and other plant-based foods that star on Rustic Canyon’s menus in Los Angeles, California. Also noted is the way he inspires infectious enthusiasm for plant-forward cooking among other chefs. Jeremy recently published a new cookbook, "On Vegetables."
As a master of farmers’ market-driven cuisine, Jeremy Fox is the award- winning chef and On Vegetables cookbook author behind Rustic Canyon and Esters Wine Shop & Bar in Santa Monica, CA, as well as a partner at Rustic Canyon and Tallula’s. Since joining the Rustic Canyon Family of Restaurants in February 2013 as Rustic Canyon’s chef, Jeremy’s role has grown and evolved to include mentoring all the culinary talent at the flagship restaurant, Esters, and Tallula’s. His leadership style not only includes teaching culinary skills, but also the business side of working in restaurants, as well as cultivating any particular talents or interests a chef may possess—whether it’s charcuterie, pastry, a particular cultural cuisine—to share with the larger team.
Inspired by local purveyors and the nearby Santa Monica Farmers’ Market, Jeremy crafts a daily-changing menu at Rustic Canyon that embraces
hyper-seasonality and simplicity—an approach he instills with the teams at all
three restaurants. While many dishes are fleeting, like Local Rice Congee with
Sonoma duck confit, preserved cherries, and opal basil, some have become celebrated signatures like the Hope Ranch Mussels Pozole Verde with Rancho
Gordo hominy, poblano, scallion, radish, and tortilla and the Beets and Berries served with avocado, Rancho Gordo quinoa, and pistachio “soil.”
The carrot pulp and cavatelli dough will need overnight to dehydrate and rest, respectively. You should therefore cook this the day before you intend to serve.
1) In a food processor, blend together the flour and salt. While the machine is running, slowly add the carrot juice (you may not need all of it), until the dough comes together. Be careful not to overwork the dough in the food processor. The dough may look crumbly, but if you press it together with your fingers, it should very easily combine into dough. You are looking for a texture similar to Play-Doh: elastic, pliable, and not sticking to your fingers when you touch it. If the dough is too dry, add more juice; too wet, add more flour.
2) Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead it with the heels of your hands for about 1 minute, until you have a smooth dough.
3) Wrap the dough tightly with plastic wrap (clingfilm) and let it rest overnight in the refrigerator.
4) Place the carrot pulp on a dehydrator tray and dehydrate at 135°F (57°C) overnight.
5) About 1 hour before you plan to make the cavatelli, let the dough come to room temperature–– this will make it much easier to work with. Divide the dough into 6 pieces. Lightly flour a work surface. Working with one piece at a time–– and keeping the rest of the dough covered–– roll the dough into a long, thin rope, about 1/8 inch (3 mm) in diameter. Cut the rope crosswise into ¼-inch (6 mm) pieces.
6) Using a cavatelli board, or the tines of a fork, gently yet confidently roll the dough pieces against it. The cavatelli may not come out perfect right away, but soon the motion will find its way into your muscle memory.
7) Once the cavatelli are shaped, lay them in a single layer (not touching eachother) on a baking sheet lined with a tea towel. Repeat this process until all the dough has been turned into cavatelli. These are best cooked when fresh, so if you are going to be cooking them the same day, you can just leave them out. Otherwise, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.
8) Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season your water with salt so it tastes like the sea. It is important to taste the pasta water to make sure it is seasoned properly. Once seasoned and boiling, add the cavatelli and cook until they float to the surface, about 3 minutes. If you’re not sure whether they are done, the best test is just to eat one.
1) Peel the carrots and then cut the carrots into rough 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes. These do not have to be perfect, as they will all eventually be puréed.
2) In a bowl, toss the carrots with 2 tbsps of the grapeseed oil and the salt, and set aside for about 10 minutes. Transfer the carrots to a food processor and blend until broken up.
3) Transfer the mixture to a saucepot or large sauté plan. Set the pan over medium-low heat, cover, and cook, undisturbed for 40 to 45 minutes. You’ll know it’s ready when you can smear it with a spoon. (If you take it off the heat too early, you will find the texture of the purée to be somewhat grainy after you purée it.) Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend on low speed, then gradually increase to high speed while slowly frizzling in the remaining 4 tbsps grapeseed oil. Blend the purée to the consistency of mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt; it should have a pure carrot flavor. Store in an airtight container refrigerated for up to 3 days.
1) In a bowl, combine the carrot tops, olive oil, garlic, pickle brine (withhold this ingredient if not using the salsa right away), and lemon zest, and whisk thoroughly until combined.
2) Use immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days. If storing to use later, don’t add the brine (or lemon juice) until right before serving. The sauce may separate a bit, so just give it a quick whisk again before using.
1) Spread the pulp evenly on a dehydrator tray and dehydrate at 125ºF to 135°F (52C° to 57°C) for at least 8 hours, or until completely dry. You should get about ¾ cup (53 g) of dehydrated pulp.
2) Transfer the pulp to a mortar and pestle and grind until you have the rustic texture of a fine breadcrumb. (A food processor will turn your breadcrumbs into more of a uniform powder.) Transfer to a bowl and add the sugar, spice, and salt and stir together.
3) Store in an airtight container indefinitely at room temperature. Stir in the olive oil until combined.
1) In a wide sauté pan, combine the peppercorns, mace, cinnamon, coriander seeds, and cloves and toast over medium heat, stirring, until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes.
2) Transfer the spices to a spice grinder and process until very finely ground. Transfer the spice blend to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to 2 months.
3) When the blend loses its fragrance, make a new batch.
While the pasta water heats up, gently warm the carrot purée in a small pan over low heat and keep covered (and warm) until serving.
Using a sieve, scoop the cavatelli out of the pasta water and into a wide bowl. Immediately dress them with the carrot top salsa verde and toss to combine. Ladle in some of the starchy, seasoned pasta water, a little at a time, to open up the flavors and create a very light sauce that will coat the cavatelli. Don’t add too much water or it will make for a thin, diluted sauce.
Place dollops of the carrot purée on 4 warmed plates. Spoon the cavatelli on top and sprinkle the carrot crumble over the pasta and the plate. I like being able to drag the cavatelli through more of the crumble as I’m eating it. Shave ribbons of gouda over the top and serve immediately.