Azurmendi
Chef Eneko Atxa
Place Larrabetzy, Spain
In his three-Michelin-star restaurant, Eneko Atxa integrates the Basque territory and its resources, ancestral cultural roots, traditional products, cooperation with his immediate surroundings, and technical tools, to create a cuisine that is intense and deeply rooted in the local identity. Serving mostly produce and fish and seafood, Azurmendi received the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Sustainable Restaurant Award.
Eneko Atxa started in the world of gastronomy when he was 15, in the School of catering in Leioa (Biscay), along with different phases in restaurants where he studied and he was immersed in traditional Basque cooking. After this training period, he headed for the most prestigious restaurants and little by little he consolidated his own personality and style. In 2005, after being the chief chef in renowned restaurants, he decided to open his own restaurant: Azurmendi. Back in the day, Eneko was the youngest Chef in Spain to obtain 3 Michelin stars, a recognition that only 8 Spanish chefs have. The World’s 50 Best Restaurants named Azurmendi the most sustainable restaurant in the world, and Best Restaurant in Europe according to Opinionated About Dinning.
60 minutes cook/prep
Blend the raw peas with water and salt.
Strain into a fine sieve.
Mix the puree of peas with water and salt to point.
Heat a part of the pea mash with vegetable gelatin and gelatin sheets (previously hydrated) until it boils.
Mix with another part of pea mash brewing.
Allow to cool until it is set.
The kitchen aid fitted at maximum speed until you have double volume.
Place it in a gastro with butter spray, and film and freeze.
Cut in 1.5 cm x 1.5 cm.
Place the bones in a pot, and cover them with water. Leave to reduce to desired flavor. Texturize with xanthan gum, remove air and keep in fridge.
In a Thermomix, blend the oil with chives for 10 minutes at 40°C (104°F)
Put a strainer into a container and strain the oil.
Put in fridge the container with the colander in the refrigerator for a day, going through sieve again.
The next day reserve oil in vacuum of 400 g bag.
Cut with the slicer finely. Cut into squares of 2x2cm.
Blanch the peas seconds in water and add gel ham.
Cook slightly.
Cut with the slicer finely. Fry the bread slices and leave in warm table, ration into smaller pieces.
Select shoots.
Clean the flowers and review.
Place 4 drops of chive oil in the center of the dish on a white platter plate. On top of this, place the peas in an elongated teardrop. In the corners, place a few slices of smoked bacon. Place 2 pieces of corn bread and two afilia sprouts in the center. Put Palomilla de muro flowers on the bacon. In the top left and the bottom right put the pea cake.
His approach
Azurmendi is a unique place and Eneko Atxa has made of that green hillside, where Azurmendi is nestled, the core of a culinary ecosystem that works like a beating heart – a green heart. The work with small farmers in the area, the recycling and the usage of local produce, and the preservation of autochthonous animal species that are in danger of extinction are some of the elements that defined Eneko’s passion for sustainability. Eneko’s obsession for taking care of the environment can be reflected into different ways, such as: a smart building that regulates the temperature by itself through a geothermal system of heating and cooling which allows the warm and cold winds to enter the place. As well as making sure that, all of Azurmendi’ s providers and vendors work according to its sustainable philosophy. The daily recycling and composting that is taken to centers where this compost is utilized. The collection of rain water in rafts to be used during the entire year. Also, the germplasm bank of local varieties (more than 400 from Basque Region). They even recycle intellectual ideas on this unique "Enekosystem".
Where do you look for inspiration?
I find inspiration in local culture, terrain, cook books and suppliers, trying to transmit all those things through the light of gastronomy. I understand gastronomy as a universal language which can transmit a territory and a culture. My cuisine is rooted to the Basque traditional cuisine. You can feel the flavors of homemade food and the stews made by my grandmother on every dish. I depart from this solid base to build textures and techniques to create the highest potency of flavor dishes. A cuisine that shares a story and gives the diner a gentle touch – with harmony and sustainability.
If you could cook dinner for anyone from history, who would it be and what would you make?
I would cook for chef Auguste Scoffier. I´d cook our latest degustation menu and make to live the experience we have created around the food. I choose him because he was the first visionary of the contemporary cuisine.