Manresa
Chef David Kinch
Place Los Gatos, CA, USA
At Manresa, in Los Gatos, California, the seasons are in charge. David Kinch is noted for being the first chef to develop an exclusive relationship with a farm, namely the Love Apple Farm, to which he provides guaranteed income, in a completely symbiotic relationship. Diners and critics alike will agree: With these two factors at play, it is no coincidence Manresa has been recognized consistently for nearly a decade with two Michelin stars—and in 2016, earned a third.
Located in the village of Los Gatos at the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains south of San Francisco, Manresa is the showcase for the inventive cuisine of renowned Chef and Proprietor David Kinch. Fostered by the terroir of the California Coast, and the kind of ingredient-driven cooking and modern technique he studied around the world, Kinch’s distinctive culinary path has put him at the forefront of contemporary California cuisine. His pursuit of exceptional products imparts a distinct sense of place and time to the guests. Manresa is a Three Michelin Star restaurant and a member of the Relais & Chateaux family.
David Kinch has forged a distinctive culinary path and has been internationally recognized as an innovator of a new contemporary California cuisine. His philosophy is fostered by the terroir, or “sense of place” of the California Coast, and the kind of ingredient-driven cooking and modern technique he studied around the world. Kinch finds inspiration from European traditions, American ingenuity, Japanese refinement, and the vast bounty of exceptional products California offers.
Strawberry Consommé
Hull the strawberries, place them in a nonreactive bowl, and wrap the bowl tightly with plastic wrap.
Place the bowl over a double boiler and simmer for about 2 hours, until the strawberries have given up their liquid and collapsed.
Strain the liquid, letting the solids drain for a bit without pressing.
Chill the consommé and reserve to thin the gazpacho and for other uses. Discard the solids.
Strawberry Gazpacho
Crush the strawberries by hand into a large bowl. Stir in the onion, pepper, cucumber, garlic, tarragon, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil.
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 1 day to allow the flavors to combine.
Puree the mixture in a blender and strain.
Thin the puree with a little of the Strawberry Consommé to the consistency of a creamy, easy-to-pour soup.
Adjust the seasoning with fine sea salt and return to the refrigerator.
Fig Leaf Curd
Add the fig leaves to the warm milk. Cover with plastic wrap and allow the flavor to infuse for about 20 minutes, until it is assertive and well balanced, yet not too astringent.
Strain the infusion, add the simple syrup, and season to taste with salt.
Weigh the milk mixture, then weigh out kappa carrageenan equaling 1.5 percent of the liquid weight (for example, for 100 grams of liquid, use 1.5 g of carrageenan).
Heat the mixture to 175°F (80°C). With a whisk, shear in the carrageenan, and continue whisking until it thickens.
Cool the gel in a shallow pan in the refrigerator until it is completely set. Break the set gel into pieces and puree in a blender until it becomes smooth and fluid. Strain the curd and reserve in the refrigerator.
ASSEMBLE
35 g hulled strawberries cut into 1/8-inch brunoise
30 g peeled, seeded cucumber cut into 1/8-inch brunoise
30 g roasted red bell pepper cut into 1/8-inch brunoise
8 g thinly sliced chives
Extra virgin almond oil
15 to 20 cucumber flowers
6 to 10 roasted Marcona almonds
6 to 10 small strawberries with stems, halved
30 to 40 baby onions or chives
Combine the strawberries, cucumber, bell pepper, and sliced onions with just enough almond oil to hold the mixture together. Place a small quenelle of Fig Leaf Curd in individual soup bowls. Add a quenelle of the vegetable mixture, a Marcona almond, several cucumber flowers, a few baby onions, a few drops of almond oil, and a halved strawberry. Transfer the Strawberry Gazpacho to a large pitcher and invite diners to pour soup into their garnished bowls at the table.
A short paragraph on why plant forward is important to us:
A plant forward menu and ethos has always been a part of who we are at Manresa Restaurant, so much so that we started an exclusive collaboration with a local farm to grow for the specific needs for the restaurant in 2005. Vegetables, and fruits, are a true representation of seasonality, the height of the most savory time and the best availability. And, contrary to popular opinion, they require as much, if not more preparation in showing them the respect they deserve. Lastly, a plant forward menu offers endless possibility in a healthful and nutritious choice, full of color and aroma, digestibility and happiness. It is a good situation for restaurant and guest alike.
Our tips for making vegetables enticing:
As for cooking vegetables, I find that they are visually a delight closest to their natural forms so we do what we can to maintain this. We also like to combine both a raw and cooked version of vegetables to add textural complexity and contrast when we can.
Where do you look for inspiration?
I look for inspiration from many sources. Mostly it comes from reading, and looking at product and visiting markets which tell you about the cycles of the season with clarity. And though, I do get some inspiration from eating at peers’ restaurants, travel in a cultural context might be my biggest source of all.